One of Zwift’s unique features is the Companion app designed to run alongside the game and enhance the experience. While many Zwifters use it when they aren’t zwifting (to find events, chat with Club members, etc), it’s also commonly used while zwifting to interact with the game and chat with others.
Depending on your Companion device and Zwifting setup, though, the app’s connection to your active Zwift session may not be stable. This is annoying at the best of times, and race-ending if you’re pairing your devices through Companion!
Several months ago, we published How to Ensure Reliable Companion App Connection when Zwifting. (If you’re having troubles maintaining a steady connection between the game and your Companion app, I highly recommend reading this post.)
Then just a couple of weeks ago, our friend Mike Hanney at Zwiftalizer posted a helpful video with a few more tips that are definitely worth sharing. Watch it below, or scroll down for a summary:
Router Settings
- Turn off 2.4 GHz
- Set up media prioritization (aka “Quality of Service” or “Packing Shaping”)
- Get all your neighbors to turn of 2.4 GHZ as well 😂
Phone Settings
- Turn off Cellular Data for Companion App and/or disable Wi-Fi Assist on your phone overall
- Turn on Device Connection in Companion Settings
Using Zwiftalizer To Troubleshoot Connections
Mike explains how to use Zwiftalizer‘s Connection Attempts chart to determine where in the signal chain your Companion app connection is getting dropped.
Pairing Devices In the Right Order
Zwift’s pairing screen behaves a bit oddly if you’re pairing multiple power sources (for example, a smart trainer and power meter pedals). Mike explains how to pair things up in this situation.
Companion App’s Bluetooth Dropout Device Indicator
If you’re connecting via Companion and have a dropout, the Companion app can tell you which device has dropped out. This information isn’t available anywhere else in Zwift, oddly enough, so Mike explains how to find it.
He also points you to the Trackit app, which can be used to get your signal strength from all your devices.
Questions or Comments?
Share below!
I was having tons of connection issues and Zwift support, after looking at my logs, told me to disable Bluetooth on my phone. I’ve had almost zero drops since then. Strange to hear your recommending not only to keep Bluetooth on, but route the Zwift broadcast signal through the phone.
Regardless, it’s surprising to me that I’ve never had connection issues with phones playing music through car Bluetooth even since almost 2 decades ago. With stereo audio, that’s quite a bit of data. Zwift either has an inefficient protocol – perhaps broadcasting to much at a higher frequency – or needs to compress (even through efficient packing) data better.
Another key thing is WiFi signal strength at the game box location. There is a free app called “WiFi Analyzer” that will show you the strongest channel at your game box location. There is a surprisingly wide variety of strengths for the different channels within both the 2.4 or 5 GHz range. Change your WiFi to use the strongest channel at your location.
I’ve been using a wireless mouse and keypad connected to a laptop from the beginning. No “companion app”
.. OK?
I also use a wireless keyboard/mouse. But the Companion app lets you do stuff you can’t easily do (or do at all) with the keyboard or mouse. Hence its popularity.
I don’t have an issue with the Companion App, however, recently my Garmin cadence sensor fails to pair with Zwift. The cadence sensor works fine with the Garmin head unit. Don’t know why it stopped synching with Zwift. Using Bluetooth and the connection is fine. Any ideas?
Omg I have so many issues pairing dropping out during play and lack of support from ha ha the support hub!
Last week I had a link sent to “help”” when I clicked it didn’t exist
I reset my Bluetooth log off log on and yes I have hi speed broadband and no devices running at the same time
I just want to log on and ride/run why is it so hard?????
Turning off WIFI Assist on my work iPhone 12 mini was the big game changer for me. I’d always lose connection if I picked up the phone in my hand (maybe I’m holding it wrong? /wink). The last few months have been solid since I made that change.
My Pixel phones haven’t had that problem, but the companion app’s presentation on large screen Android phone is just terrible, so I used an iPhone even when I had frequent drops.
Sadly, the best solution is a USB extender cable and a bluetooth or ant+ dongle, depending on what you’re connecting. USB3 ports create a lot of signal interference.
Helpful, thank you!!